Walking the makatea staircases of Mangaia

Passages cut through the coral cliff to reach the plantations inland, some shaped into steps by hand generations ago. The island's old name refers to them.

Weaving and handicraft on the outer islands

Pandanus hats, baskets and mats made on the outer islands and sold across the Cooks. Buying where they are made costs less and matters more.

What Atiu is, and whether it is for you

An honest account. Atiu is caves, birds, coffee and bush beer on a raised coral island with very few visitors — and it is not a beach holiday.

When to visit the Cook Islands

Two broad seasons, neither of them bad. What the difference actually means for swimming, walking, prices and cyclone risk.

Where to swim from the shore on Aitutaki

The motu get the attention, but there is good swimming from the main island — if you know which side and which tide.

Where to swim on Rarotonga besides Muri

Muri gets the photographs, but the west and south coasts have better snorkelling, better sunsets and far fewer people. Where to go, and where the currents make it a bad idea.

Wigmore's Waterfall (Papua Falls)

A short, flat walk from the south coast road to a small waterfall and pool. Ten minutes each way, and entirely dependent on recent rain.